Friday, March 21, 2008

Faux Metal ATC - Step-by-Step

I am doing some trades with people in my Mixed Media Art group. I originally got the idea for the faux metal background from the Mar/Apr issue of Somerset Studio. It is from the "Industria" article starting on page 79. I first tried it with silver Lumiere, then bronze, and now super copper. I like the silver and super copper the most. The copper look is great - like it's all rusty.
1. I took some chipboard ATCs and painted them with the super copper. Two coats - let dry in between coats.
2. Take some coarse sand paper and sand the edges and random spots of the ATC. You should go all the way down to the chipboard. Wipe off residue. You can also take the end of a paper clip or something similar and make some deep scratches. Not too many - just a few random ones.
3. Use a Distress pad in frayed burlap and rub it all over the ATC. You can use a sponge but I just use the pad itself. I do the edges first and then rub the pad in a circular motion in the middle. Make sure you get the exposed areas that you took off with the sand paper. I also used some green and walnut stain in different areas to add to the look. I also used a dab of interference green oxide fluid acrylic in random areas. It gave that greenish verdigree look. Let dry.
4. I did the holes next. I used my crop-a-dile. Punch the inner holes first so you can line up the outer holes later on. It is easier that way. You can adjust the crop-a-dile so that the hole is punched the same length from the edge every time. Put on eyelets. I did sand the eyelets and used a little interference green oxide on them so the eyelets did not look new.
5. Take some narrow strips of fabric and use some Distress inks on them so they don't look so new. I used some dyed muslin. You can also just use the ink on the fabric after you have put it through the eyelets. I did both. If you want the "X' like I have, then you need to start at the top and go from the back to the front. Cross the fabric so you have your first "X". When the ends are in back again, take the ends and put it through the other end to the front. Pull tight. That is what lets you make the next set of "X"s. Cross the ends over and put through the eyelet to the back of the ATC. Once the ends are at the back again, take the ends and put them through the front of the other end. So, you are not confused. There is a left and right eyelet hole in back. Where you pulled through the right end, take that right end and pull it through to the front of the left hole that is next to the right hole. Take the left end and pull that through to the front of the right hole next to it. Pull tight. Now you can cross the ends and make your next "X". Do that until you get to the bottom. Knot in back and cut off excess. Take some Distress ink and rub it on top of the fabric until you get the look you want. I used some green, blue, brown, and red randomly.
6. Pick out pieces of grungeboard that you want to use. I got my grungeboard from Frances at and Christina at Use a Distress pad in whatever color and rub into the grungeboard. Spritz a little water on it and blend the color into the grungeboard. Dab excess moisture off with paper towel. Rub another color on top to get the top texture a different color. I used blue for the background and red for the texture.
7. Position your elements on the ATC. I was going with mostly found objects except for the grungeboard. I used a hot glue gun (my Dremel one) to adhere the elements to the ATC. I used hot glue because I think it adds to the look. The only thing severely annoying about it was the little glue strings all over. I had to use a pair of tweezers to get all of them off.
8. Use some fluid acrylics to color some of the elements so they don't look so new. I used some transparent yellow oxide, transparent red oxide, and interference green oxide.
9. The grungeboard looked too bright. So, I used my finger and rubbed on some walnut stain (Distress Ink). I sanded the grungboard down a little to get it a little rougher looking and then rubbed some more walnut stain on.
10. I punched holes where I needed to put brads. I added a little rusty clip. Done.
You can click on the picts for a larger view. Comments welcome.


Alphaneenee said...

Great job Belinda, these look great. I love aging my work and these techniques are new to me. Never thought to use my Lumiere paints. You do a great job listing all of the steps clearly. I am going to set a link from my blog.

Anonymous said...

Hi Art Girl: love, love, love this technique and your colors. when I saw the article in Somerset Studio I thought maybe I might want to try it and now for sure I will : ) thank you sooo much for this step-by-step tutorial, it gives me the motivation to do it NOW !!! ha : ) what is the brand of "super copper" paint you use ?? or does it matter ?? I have several but most are metallic & glossy ?? thanks again for your creative & sharing energy.
Love & Blessings to you, Sandra : )

Jen Crossley said...

This looks awesome!!
Try the gold paint it also looks very cool.
Love your ATC's
Jen crossley